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Replacement ranges anywhere from $5,500-$15,500 depending on the system desired or needed. Median replacement cost would be around $7,000

10-12 years if well maintained.

Maintenance consists of cleaning the drain line and drain pan. Includes inspection of the indoor air handler for cleanliness. We wipe down and sanitize anything accessible and use a no rinse coil cleaning spray to help maintain the coil. We check the filter for if it needs changed and do a visual inspection of the ductwork. We also check static pressure at the ductwork to ensure the ductwork is not undersized. We also check to see if the system is properly charged and cooling efficiently as well as check all electrical connections and components that may cause a breakdown in the near future. We make recommendations according to our findings if needed.

Typically $300 and up depending on the repair

Could be air flow restriction due to a corroded coil or bad fan. If outside air is below freezing you may notice a difference in the effectiveness of the heat pump and if the system is not charged properly it will be more noticeable and may need to be serviced.

Usually a electrical component that has failed or a refrigerant leak.

They are measured in BTUs and tonnage. 1 ton=12,000 btus. The tonnage needed is calculated using load calculation software that takes into account any efficiency upgrades to the home, such as windows, insulation, metal or tile roofs, foam insulation and what direction the windows are facing. Tonnage is not based solely on the size of the home and will be different depending on how efficient or efficient the home is.

A manual J is the only way to know 100% what size system is needed, and should be performed when efficiency upgrades are made or if you are changing the current size of equipment.

SEER2(seasonal energy efficiency rating) is the current method used as of 2023

Having maintenance performed twice a year to ensure its clean and cooling properly. A system low on refrigerant will add significant cost to the energy bill and if not detected early will increase the cost of repairs when it becomes more noticeable. Change filters every 30 days or early if needed.

More capacity is not always better, in fact it will cause humidity and mold and mildew issues if it is too high of a capacity. A manual J heat load calculation is the only way to be sure your system is the correct size. If the system does not run long enough it will not be pulling enough moisture out of the air.

Until it reaches the desired temperature, the average for Florida is 76-78 degrees for dehumidification. It’s not recommended to go above 80. The important thing is knowing the percentage of humidity in the home and keeping it below the percentage mold growth will be more likely which should be below 60% and definitely not higher than 70%

There should be around 16-18 degrees difference between the inside air temp closest to the return and the supply temp above the air handler. System should be charged using either subcool or superheat depending on the system and will very between that temperature difference range.

If you have a set schedule it will save money raising the temp when gone, not practical for savings if your schedule is not set for long periods of time away from home that are consistently on the same days and times each week.

1″ filters Every 30 days regardless of kind or what it says on the filter is recommended. 6″ media filters are usually 6-12 months and 1″ EAC filters are usually every 3 months. Regardless of what is said on the filter or recommended, each home is different, you may have to change it early and more often and the filter should be checked and changed more often if needed. Avoid filters you can actually read a newspaper through, pleated filters are recommended or better.

Spray down the outside coil and suck out the drainline every 6 months. Whenever a drainline is cleaned, always fill it back up with water to prime the trap in the drainline otherwise the drainline may back up or cause knocking noises from sucking air from outside the home.

Recommended every 6 months. No less than annual

Make sure the drainline is clear and check breakers for any that may have tripped and make sure the filter is clean.

If you turn the fan setting to ON make sure your MODE setting is set to OFF. WHen the fan is continuously on while the system is in the cooling mode it
will pull moisture from the indoor coil and drain pan and put it right back into the home, increasing humidity and causing a great environment for mold growth.

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